Buenos Aires in 4 days – part 1.
2 days in Uruguay – click here!
Day 3:
Morning – Another free walking tour with free walking tour at 10.30am, meeting just to the side of Teatro Colon. This time we had Franco, who had brought along his guitar, and throughout the tour sang Argentinian folk songs to our group – who doesn’t like a guy who sings? The morning tour covers the fancier grounds, Plaza San Martin, Recoleta and Ave Alvear, which has many European looking cafes.(中文請往下)
Tip: Chilean Empanadas are tastier than Argentinian’s by far!For lunch we went to el Sanjuanito, which is suppose to be the best empanadas in Buenos Aires. It was tiny, greasy and lacked fillings. Considering this recommendation wasn’t just from tripadvisor, but local guides too, it was really disappointing!
Afternoon – A walk around the Recoleta cemetery, where famous people like Evita was buried. It’s a beautiful cemetery with heavy European influences, different types of granite and marble stones. Entry is free. Behind the cemetery, to the north west, about 20 minutes walk, is the Floralis Generalis – the giant metal flower that opens and closes according to the sun position. In between the two locations, there are lots of green parks and two art museums.
I then decided to go to Palermo again! This time to walk around the boutique shops. There aren’t that many local designer shops as I thought, it’s a mix of overseas ones too. When I got tired I just picked one of the many cafes around for a juice.
Evening – Casa Saltshaker! One of the tastiest meals I have had, with the most surprising tastes on my taste buds! I love my food, and have eaten at many fine dining, street eats, supper clubs thus far, and still this was a surprise. This was a supper club at Chef Dan’s house, who use to be a chef in New York, and moved to Buenos Aires when he fell in love with Henry, a Peruvian tango dancer! Most of the decor was wooden, with a large bookcase backdrop and a table which sits ten.
We were welcomed by a drink of zingy apple and ginger. My fellow guests that night were a British couple who lived in NZ, a Canadian couple on their honeymoon and a US couple. The night proceeded with great conversation, five course meal with matching wines. All portions of food and wine were very generous, we all struggled to finish! Contrary to the Argentinian red meats, Dan opted for a different menu of seafood and white meats mainly, which changes daily. $70USD, 4-5 nights a week, booking opens a few weeks in advance, here.
Day 4:
Morning – Tigre, a small town outside of Buenos Aires. The whole town, other than the city centre, sits on a maze of different rivers. As such, the roads are rivers, which you can access via a boat. Buses are omnibus boats. Each house has their own dock from the river. Looking at the map, I think I would get quite lost!
Tip: I went with a tour which includes transport from Buenos Aires, a hour long river boat ride, which wasn’t really worth it. I heard you are able to take the train from Buenos Aires there yourself very cheaply, and the boat tour was only ARS$180 stand alone. When the sun is shining it’s nice to spend a leisurely morning there.
Afternoon – I went back to Ave Alvear / Arroyo from yesterday to one of the cute cafes I saw, Farinelli. They had really healthy seasonal salads, soups, wraps and a array of cakes on the counter. The falafel wrap and date mascarpone cake was amazing!
Took a 30 minutes walk towards Teatro Colon, just in time for the 3pm English guided tour. The guide were well known for their passion, and the stunning interior of the theater didn’t disappoint either. Stunning details, beautifully presented, with a very passionate, entertaining, guide – must go! Next time I am there, I would like to go see a performance! English tours are 3pm or 6pm, 50 minutes, ARS$180.
Tip: Some mornings for performance rehearsals, you can get free tickets to see those, check with the ticket sales when you purchase your guided tours!
That’s four packed days in Buenos Aires, plus 2 days in Uruguay. Tight trip but in no way being hurried along. It’s a beautiful European city, with great culinary experiences, and amazing tango. I am definitely coming back next time to see some shows, eat more food, and take tango classes!
Tip: As with all big cities, especially in South America, common sense and caution is the key! There are cases where in taxis at night while you are not looking, swap your 100 bills for a fake one, and con you for more!
Tip: See a local Argentinian show that went on international stage! Fuerza Bruta, meaning brute force! It’s a mix of circus, visual effects and interactive theater! There’s no other show like this. Actually saw this in London, so didn’t go see it again in Argentina. No language skills necessary! Tickets from ARS$240, daily, at Centro Cultural de Recoleta, buy here.
In Chinese:
第三天
另外一個自由的行程，早上10點半在Teatro Colon邊上集合。這次我們的嚮導是Franco，他帶著他的吉他延途唱著阿根廷的旅遊歌 ，誰會不喜歡一個會唱歌的導遊? 早上 的行程包含了 Plaza San Martin, Recoleta, 和Ave Alvear。都有一些看起來很歐風的咖啡店。
小提醒~
智利餡餅比阿根廷的餡餅要 好吃， 因為中午我們去了一間聽說是布宜諾斯艾利斯最好的煎餅，但它比較小，比較油膩 而且內餡也比較少。 因為這不是有 名網頁的推薦，也不是當地人推薦的，所以很失望 。
下午:就在Recoleta cemetery逛逛，有一些很有名的人埋葬在那。他有很濃厚的歐洲風格，很漂亮的墓園。用不同的花岡石，大理石 造成，是免費入園的。在墓園的後面西北方大約20分鐘的路程，是Floralis Generalis ，這個巨大的 金屬花會隨著太陽的位置而開合 。在這兩地之間有很多的公園 和藝術館。
然後我決定又再回到Palermo一次，這次我 逛了一些 精品店 ，這兒並不像我以為的只有當地的設計， 它也融合了很多的海外的 商品。 當走累了，你很容易就可以找一家店喝杯飲料。
晚上:Casa Saltshaker 這是我吃過最美味的一家餐廳，驚訝了我的味蕾。我很喜歡品嚐美食，而且吃了很多的好的餐廳，或是街頭的小吃，或是小酒館。但這一次仍非常讓我驚豔。這個餐廳主廚是Dan，他本來是紐約的一個主廚， 因為 愛上了Henry就搬到布宜諾斯艾利斯。Henry是 秘魯的探戈舞者。餐廳裡大部分的裝潢都是木頭的，有一個很大的書櫃坐落在一個10人坐的桌子後面 。我們先喝著餐前酒，我同桌的朋友有一對 住在紐西蘭的英國 伴侶，一對加拿大來渡蜜月的夫妻，還有一對美國的伴侶。整個晚餐 我們有很棒的語言交流，五道餐點和相配的飲料。所有食物的份量都很大，酒也非常的 大方，我們 都奮力的吃完。和阿根廷只有紅肉 不同的是，這邊他提供了不同的海鮮和白肉，每天都變換菜單，每人70塊美金， 可能要幾個禮拜以前預約 。
第四天
早上:Tigre，在布宜諾斯艾利斯外面的一個小鎮 ，這整個鎮除了市中心，全部坐落在 錯綜複雜的河流上，他的路也是河，大眾運輸公具也是一種綜合巴士，每一人家都有他們自己的渡頭。看著地圖都覺得我要迷路了。
小提醒~
我從布宜諾斯艾利斯 過來是買了全行程，包含一個小時的船隻航行，其實不太值得。我後來聽說你可以自己坐火車來，再單買180元的船票，可以比較便宜。在太陽 閃閃發亮的時候，在這享受一下慵懶的早上是很值得的。
下午:我回到Ave Alvear 因為昨天我經過一個很可愛的咖啡館Farinelli，他們有很健康的當季的沙拉，湯 ，捲餅還有一長排的蛋糕。沙拉三明治的捲餅和棗子甜點都非常的 好吃。
經過 30分鐘的 步行來到Teatro Colon， 剛好趕上3點鐘的英文引導團 。這個團的引導的熱情，是被眾所周知的。而戲院的裝潢陳設也絕不讓你失望。驚人的內容，美麗的陳設，還有一個非常 熱情，非常讓人愉悅的響導，所以你一定要來看看。英文的導覽是下午三點和六點，一共是50分鐘 ，花費180元。
小提醒~
有些早上有預演，是免費的。你可以順便問一下 導遊。
這四天 布宜諾斯艾利斯行程非常緊湊但是卻不匆忙。充滿著美好的歐洲的城市，不同的飲食經驗，和嘆為觀止的探戈， 我一定會再回來的。
小提醒~
走過了所有比較大的城市，特別是南美，一般的 常識和小心謹慎是絕對必要的。這邊有一些案例發生在晚上的計程車上，他們會在你不注意的時候將你的100元鈔票 換成假鈔，然後要求更多。阿根廷有一個躍上國際舞台的表演Fuerza bruta 意思是蠻力的意思。它是結合了馬戲團，視覺的享受和 互動的一個劇院。沒有其它類似的表演。但是因為我在倫敦已看過了，所以這次沒有去看。 沒有語言技巧的需要，票價是240元，每天 在Centro Cultural de Recoleta演出。
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